
記得,除了柱狀玄武岩,就是會刺傷喉嚨的仙人掌果實,還有吃起來格外脆口的綠色絲瓜,以及煙霧繚繞的天后宮,好像還有個淒美的愛情故事,搔著頭我想不太起來。那年八歲,知道有一座吉貝島、一座七美島、還有一座綠蠵龜會在此產卵下蛋的棲息地望安島。看過一本百科全書,裡頭兒說綠蠵龜繁殖很不容易,因為軟軟薄薄的蛋殼,常常被其他的水生動物襲擊吃掉,儘管綠蠵龜媽媽產下上百顆卵,能夠成功孵化的不過幾十顆、能夠突破重圍到達海裡面的不過個位數,順利生存下來寥寥可數。我第一次的離島旅行,媽媽跟我們說,望安島到看得見綠蠵龜寶寶,我心心念念不忘。
重返菊島,竟二十年後。在海外流浪多年日子,也曾造訪許多離島,日本九州的離島壱崎、南義大利西西里島,他們都有美麗的海岸線和迷人的神話,也令我愛不釋手渴望繼續探尋新的目的地。原訂於今年春季再次出發時,因疫情肆虐全球,不得不,停下我這一次的出走計畫。這停下的腳步,像是世界齒輪停止運作,緩慢地、悄聲地,殊不知內心的旅遊魂不斷出竅,跨越時空至台灣離島,想要望ㄧ望童年的綠蠵龜與菊島海岸線。
重遊菊島,拎著回憶和期待,而我的旅伴是初次造訪,懷著興奮與好奇。旅遊最有趣的地方在於旅伴,每一個人的旅遊方式都是「結合自己的嗜好、喜好、偏好,來作旅遊的選擇」,身邊旅伴是個挑嘴的老饕,在餐廳的挑選上有著過分的堅持與期待,必嘗試當地口味、親近民情、入鄉隨俗。不同文化的場域與國家,因為不理解而亟欲走訪一遭,但熟悉的家鄉與味道,卻可以讓在外遊子再三回味,無窮至心底最深的滿足。
我們沿著菊島的山水沙灘愜意地漫步、我們在七美島環島一周、也至西嶼觀看巍峨柱狀玄武岩,旅伴嗅出我童年的遺憾,但唯有望安島才看得見綠蠵龜。也罷,倘若那兒仍是一片淨土、不被打擾的模樣,我便也停在這裡,就如同疫情讓我停在台灣一樣,深切地感受雙腳踏實的地方,遠遠遙望、想像那綠蠵龜悠遊奔放,如此便能心滿意足的繼續探索他方。
這是對澎湖的想像,這次要留下的是澎湖的美食記憶,認真的職人餐廳。
職人美食
- Addict Restaurant(詳細食記請點這裡)

- 魚好(詳細食記請點這裡)

- 菜宅裡的小酒館 > 這一次的漏網之魚,是本次的遺憾!下次一定會造訪的店!
其他相關文章:
解鎖澎湖私房餐廳:癮餐廳 addict restaurant
澎湖三天兩夜行程怎麼規劃
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